The Dark Side of Fungi Leather: Hidden Dangers No One Warns You About

Introduction to Fungi Leather

What is Fungi Leather and Why It’s Trending

Fungi Leather, also known as mushroom leather, has taken the fashion and sustainability world by storm. It’s often advertised as an ethical, eco-friendly alternative to animal leather. But is that the full story? On the surface, it looks like a dream material—vegan, biodegradable, and grown from mushrooms instead of being harvested from animals. Companies like Mylo and Mogu are rapidly turning heads with promises of high-end fashion products that don’t hurt the planet or animals. From luxury handbags to car interiors, Fungi Leather is popping up everywhere.

But let’s pump the brakes for a second. Behind all the sleek marketing and green promises, there’s a side to Fungi Leather that not many people talk about. Have you ever wondered what’s really in that “natural” mushroom material? I remember speaking with a small boutique owner in Los Angeles who had to stop stocking mushroom leather wallets because customers kept returning them—some for allergic reactions, others due to the smell. That’s not the kind of “natural” anyone wants.

Therefore, even if the surface appears bright, dirt is found both physically and figuratively the deeper you dig. Let’s uncover what’s hiding behind the curtain and understand why this seemingly magical material might have more bark than bite.

The Sustainability Pitch Behind Fungi Leather

Every brand selling Fungi Leather loves to talk about how green it is. They’ll tell you it requires less water, no animals are harmed, and it decomposes naturally. But have you ever asked what’s left out of that equation?

Here’s the thing: While the raw material—mycelium, the root-like structure of mushrooms—is certainly renewable, the processes used to make it look and feel like leather aren’t always as squeaky clean. Often, manufacturers have to rely on synthetic binders, plastic-based coatings, and chemical treatments to make Fungi Leather durable and waterproof. That raises a major red flag, especially when those chemicals can linger on the final product.

A friend of mine, an environmental science grad student, once tried to compost a fungi leather phone case to test the biodegradability claim. Six months later, it still hadn’t broken down—and that’s in a controlled composting setup! So while it can decompose, only under specific conditions, and with no added coatings. That’s a huge caveat that most companies fail to disclose.

Fungi Leather could be the savior of sustainable fashion. In practice, it’s often greenwashed. This “eco-friendly” alternative might be another product dressed in a leafy disguise.

How Fungi Leather is Made

The Mycelium Cultivation Process

At first glance, the process of making Fungi Leather seems like something out of a science fiction movie. Manufacturers grow mycelium—the vegetative part of fungi—in controlled environments. This network of fungal threads is fed agricultural waste and left to grow into thick mats. Sounds natural, right?

However, things start to get sketchy once you look into the growing conditions. These facilities often require a lot of energy to maintain specific temperatures, humidity, and light exposure. We’re not just talking about a mushroom sprouting in your backyard here. These are massive industrial operations that run 24/7 to keep the mycelium happy.

Once the mycelium grows to the desired thickness, it’s harvested, pressed, and dried. From here, it still looks more like cardboard than leather, so manufacturers use a whole arsenal of additives—think resins, glues, and synthetic dyes—to give it that leather-like texture and feel. Some of these additives are petroleum-based, which throws the whole “sustainable” pitch out the window.

This process is a far cry from the humble mushroom growing on a fallen log. So while Fungi Leather might start with nature, it doesn’t end there, and that’s something no one tells you.

Chemical Processing and Fabrication

Here’s where things start to get alarming. Most people don’t realize that to make Fungi Leather usable in products like shoes, bags, or upholstery, it must go through intense chemical treatments. Otherwise, it’s too flimsy, prone to tearing, and not water-resistant. Sounds familiar? It should, because these are the same reasons traditional synthetic leathers are so chemical-heavy.

Many brands use polyurethane (PU) coatings or binders to improve the durability and appearance of leather. That means your “all-natural” product might be covered in plastic. Worse yet, many companies aren’t transparent about the chemicals used. Because there’s little regulatory oversight for these emerging materials, they can fly under the radar.

I recently spoke with a leather artisan who experimented with Fungi Leather on a custom jacket. He had to wear gloves and a respirator while working with the treated sheets because of the chemical fumes they emitted. That doesn’t scream “safe” or “natural,” does it?

So while you might be buying into the idea of mushroom-based clothes, what you’re getting could be part mushroom, part mystery, and all marketing.

Environmental Concerns

Overlooked Pollution from Cultivation Facilities

When we think of mushrooms, we imagine serene forest floors, not industrial pollution. But here’s a curveball: large-scale Fungi Leather production doesn’t quite fit the woodland fantasy. The industrial cultivation of mycelium for leather can leave a heavy footprint, especially when it comes to air and water pollution.

These fungi factories require specialized equipment to maintain optimal conditions—constant heat, humidity, airflow, and sterilization. There is a substantial energy requirement for all of this. If that energy comes from fossil fuels (which it often does), the carbon emissions start to add up. And that’s just the beginning.

Many facilities use large volumes of water to maintain sterile conditions and clean surfaces, leading to wastewater that often contains residues from the mycelium itself and other additives. Unlike natural mushrooms that decompose gently into the environment, mycelium grown for Fungi Leather isn’t always so harmless once discarded.

An environmental engineer once shared with me that in one pilot facility, air quality sensors had to be installed to monitor spore emissions and chemical fumes. Spores, if released in high quantities, can cause respiratory issues for workers and neighboring communities. Doesn’t sound so green anymore.

This side of Fungi Leather rarely makes it into glossy product brochures. But the truth is, these eco-materials can end up contributing to the same problems they claim to solve if we don’t monitor how they’re produced and what’s left behind.

Carbon Footprint of the Entire Lifecycle

One of the loudest marketing claims surrounding Fungi Leather is its low carbon footprint. But let’s break down the lifecycle and see what’s happening behind the scenes.

First, you’ve got the agricultural waste input—great, right? But that has to be sourced, transported, and sometimes treated before it’s usable. Then comes the mycelium cultivation stage, which, as we’ve seen, uses high energy to maintain optimal growing conditions. After that, drying and pressing also require industrial heating units. And finally, there’s chemical treatment, finishing, cutting, packaging, and shipping.

A comparative lifecycle analysis revealed something eye-opening: Fungi Leather, when chemically treated for durability, can emit as much CO2 equivalent as synthetic leather made from polyurethane. Shocking.

Moreover, the lack of infrastructure for recycling or composting treated Fungi Leather products means many of them end up in landfills, where they don’t biodegrade quickly due to plastic coatings. I once read a Reddit post by a sustainability advocate who tried to recycle a fungi leather tote bag through their city’s compost program. It was rejected due to the synthetic lining.

We must consider more than just raw materials when evaluating sustainability. It’s the entire journey from mushroom spores to final product that counts. And in this case, the carbon savings might be far less than we’re led to believe.

Health Hazards Lurking in Fungi Leather

Toxic Residues and Chemical Treatments

Let’s get into the nitty-gritty—what’s touching your skin when you use a Fungi Leather product?

To make mycelium leather strong enough for daily use, it’s often reinforced with synthetic chemicals like formaldehyde-based resins, polyurethane coatings, and stabilizers. While these may not be obvious to the naked eye, they can leave behind toxic residues on the final product. This is especially concerning when these products are used close to your skin, like in handbags, jackets, or phone cases.

A biochemistry student once conducted a lab test on a wallet made from Fungi Leather and found traces of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These VOCs, though low in concentration, are known to cause headaches, eye irritation, and even longer-term health issues with continuous exposure. That’s quite a price to pay for a “natural” accessory.

Moreover, since most fungi leather manufacturers don’t disclose full ingredient lists (thanks to proprietary processing methods), consumers have no way of knowing what they’re handling. Unlike certified organic cotton or vegetable-tanned leather, Fungi Leather has no universal certification for chemical safety—yet.

So the next time you pick up a fungi leather product and think you’re doing your skin a favor, you might want to ask: what’s embedded in that “eco” texture?

Allergic Reactions and Skin Irritations

If you have sensitive skin or allergies, proceed with caution when it comes to Fungi Leather. Mycelium itself may be natural, but once it’s processed, it’s anything but simple.

There have been increasing anecdotal reports of skin rashes, itchiness, and even mild chemical burns from contact with poorly treated Fungi Leather products. In many cases, it’s not the fungi that cause the issue—it’s the synthetic coatings or adhesives used to make it usable.

One woman shared on Instagram how a fungi leather belt gave her a rash along her waistline. Thinking it was a bug bite, she brushed it off—until she wore it again, and the same thing happened. She later discovered the belt had been coated with a latex-based resin, which she was allergic to.

Since Fungi Leather is a relatively new material, dermatological research on its side effects is scarce. That means many people are being used as unknowing guinea pigs—testing out new chemical combinations without warning.

And here’s the worst part: because Fungi Leather is marketed as “natural,” people with allergies often believe it’s safer than synthetic or animal leather. Ironically, they may be exposing themselves to even more hidden allergens.

If you’ve ever had reactions to synthetic fabrics, test Fungi Leather on a small patch of skin before committing to that stylish jacket or wallet.

Questionable Durability and Longevity

How Long Does Fungi Leather Last?

Durability is a big question mark hanging over the world of Fungi Leather. When you’re spending money on a new handbag or wallet, you want it to last. The problem is, fungi leather doesn’t always hold up like traditional leather—or even synthetic alternatives.

Manufacturers often claim that Fungi Leather is “just as strong” as cowhide. But they rarely back it up with real-world testing. In reality, untreated mycelium is fragile. That’s why it needs chemical coatings and synthetic reinforcements. But even then, longevity varies wildly depending on the product and how it’s used.

A guy I met at a green tech expo told me his fungi leather sneakers started falling apart after just four months of daily use. The seams began to fray, the material cracked at the bends, and the color faded dramatically. And these weren’t cheap shoes—they cost nearly $200!

Consumer reviews echo the same concerns. Fungi Leather accessories might look great out of the box, but under pressure—literally—they tend to wear out faster than expected. If it rips, stains, or loses its structure quickly, can we call it a sustainable alternative?

In a nutshell, it may be better for the planet on paper, but if it doesn’t last, then it’s just another form of fast fashion, dressed in eco-friendly branding.

Case Studies of Premature Wear and Tear

Let’s not just speculate—real stories are pouring in about Fungi Leather products breaking down far too soon.

One high-profile example came from a fashion startup that launched a line of fungi leather backpacks with major fanfare. Within a year, customer complaints began piling up. Zippers detached, straps tore, and in humid climates, the material started smelling musty. Yikes.

Another case involved a luxury car brand experimenting with Fungi Leather seat covers. Despite promising durability tests, they found the material warped in high heat and absorbed moisture easily—two major red flags for automotive use. The pilot was scrapped after just six months.

Then there’s the artisan who tried crafting wallets with Fungi Leather for an eco-market. She said, “It was like working with damp cardboard.” Despite multiple treatments, the leather never held its shape. She eventually returned to vegetable-tanned leather for reliability.

These aren’t isolated incidents. They’re part of a growing realization: Fungi Leather, in its current form, may not be ready for long-term use, especially in high-friction, high-moisture environments. And if the material can’t stand the test of time, how sustainable is it?

The Ethics Behind the Industry

Greenwashing in Marketing

One of the biggest issues plaguing the Fungi Leather industry is the blatant use of greenwashing. That’s when companies use misleading claims or overhyped buzzwords to convince consumers that a product is environmentally friendly when it’s not. In the case of Fungi Leather, many brands toss around words like “biodegradable,” “eco-conscious,” and “cruelty-free” without backing them up with facts.

Let’s face it—most people don’t dig into the manufacturing process. They trust the label. But when a product labeled “biodegradable” is treated with petroleum-based chemicals to prevent wear and water damage, can it really break down naturally in the environment? The truth is, many of these products will end up in landfills, breaking down no faster than synthetic leather.

I remember watching a slick ad campaign for a premium fungi leather handbag that claimed, “From nature, back to nature.” The visuals were stunning—lush forests, wildlife, and serene music. But in tiny print, it mentioned the bag was “polyurethane-reinforced for durability.” Talk about a bait-and-switch.

Consumers are growing more conscious, but they’re also vulnerable to being misled by emotionally charged messaging. It’s crucial to read between the lines, ask questions, and demand transparency. Ethical marketing should mean full disclosure, not just feel-good storytelling.

If brands truly believe in Fungi Leather as a sustainable innovation, they should be honest about its strengths and its limitations.

Exploitation in the Supply Chain

The darker corners of the Fungi Leather industry reveal another ethical problem: labor exploitation and opaque supply chains. Since mycelium cultivation is still a niche skill, many companies rely on a small number of specialized workers, often under pressure to deliver large volumes in tight timeframes.

Worse, the farms producing agricultural waste used to feed the fungi are often located in regions with weak labor protections. Think poorly paid workers, long hours, and minimal safety standards. It’s ironic—products made to promote kindness and sustainability may be built on the backs of underpaid laborers.

A whistleblower who worked briefly in a fungi leather startup described intense pressure to cut corners—rushing growth cycles, skipping proper sterilization, and even ignoring chemical safety procedures to meet investor expectations. That’s a huge red flag.

Unfortunately, the industry’s secrecy doesn’t help. Because patents or NDAs protect many fungi leather technologies, there’s little visibility into what happens behind the scenes. Without third-party audits or certification standards, there’s no way to verify how ethical—or unethical—the supply chain is.

Comparing Fungi Leather to Other Alternatives

Fungi Leather vs. Animal Leather

Let’s talk comparisons. Is Fungi Leather better than animal leather? It depends on which factors you’re looking at.

Animal leather, particularly vegetable-tanned leather, is incredibly durable. When properly cared for, a leather wallet can last for decades. However, the traditional leather industry also involves animal slaughter, toxic tanning chemicals, and huge water consumption.

Fungi Leather, by contrast, avoids animal cruelty and reduces water usage. But as we’ve seen, it can involve plastic coatings and doesn’t always offer long-term durability. You may end up replacing your fungi leather wallet every year, while a traditional leather one could last ten years. Which option is more sustainable?

I once saw a YouTube video where two leather testers compared both materials in a “wear and tear” test. The Fungi Leather product began cracking within weeks, while the cowhide aged beautifully, developing a natural patina.

Bottom line? While Fungi Leather is animal-free, it’s not necessarily a superior alternative when it comes to performance and longevity. The environmental trade-offs might not be as favorable as we’re led to believe.

Fungi Leather vs. Other Vegan Leathers

There’s a growing market of vegan leather alternatives—pineapple leather (Piñatex), cactus leather, apple leather, and even recycled plastic-based options. Each has its pros and cons.

For instance, cactus leather is known for being relatively durable and requires minimal water to grow. Apple leather is partially biodegradable and made with juice industry waste. Many of these materials still use polyurethane for reinforcement, but they tend to last longer than Fungi Leather in most tests.

So, how does Fungi Leather stack up? It’s arguably the most novel and buzz-worthy, but it falls short on longevity. Plus, most other vegan leathers have better-established supply chains and more standardized manufacturing processes, which means fewer surprises and better consistency.

In a consumer trial, one user tested a cactus leather wallet and a Fungi Leather one side by side. After six months, the cactus leather was still going strong. The Fungi Leather? Frayed at the edges and stained from light moisture.

While no alternative is perfect, Fungi Leather might not be the most practical choice for long-term, high-use products, at least not yet.

What You Should Consider Before Buying Fungi Leather

Ask the Right Questions

If Fungi Leather products still tempt you, that’s okay—be a smart shopper. The following is a list of inquiries to make before buying:

• Is the material treated with polyurethane or other synthetic coatings?
• Does the brand disclose its full manufacturing process?
• How long is the product expected to last under normal use?
• Are there any certifications proving environmental or ethical claims?
• Can the item be composted or recycled when it reaches the end of its life?

These questions can help you distinguish between real sustainability and clever marketing. If the brand can’t answer these, that’s a red flag.

One tip: look for companies that offer repair services or warranties. If a Fungi Leather product truly stands the test of time, they’ll back it up.

Try Before You Buy

Try the product in person. Feel the material. Smell it. Does it feel stiff or brittle? Does it give off a chemical odor? These small cues can tell you a lot.

Some stores will even offer samples or swatches before you commit. Take advantage of that. Just like you wouldn’t buy a car without a test drive, don’t buy a high-priced Fungi Leather item without a little investigation.

Also, read reviews—especially the bad ones. They’ll often reveal durability issues, skin reactions, or misleading product claims. In one forum, a buyer posted photos of their fungi leather wallet after just two months of light use—it was practically peeling apart. That kind of firsthand info is priceless.

Being an informed buyer doesn’t mean rejecting new materials altogether—it means holding them to the high standards they claim to meet.

Conclusion: Is Fungi Leather Worth the Hype?

Fungi Leather is a promising material, no doubt. It offers an exciting alternative in the quest for sustainable fashion. But “promising” doesn’t mean perfect. Not even close.

The truth is, Fungi Leather has a long way to go before it can match the performance, durability, and safety of other materials. From hidden chemicals to inconsistent quality and exaggerated environmental claims, there’s a lot beneath the surface that consumers aren’t told.

That is not to say we should give up on innovation. But we do need more honesty, better standards, and stronger regulations. Until then, treat Fungi Leather like what it is—a work in progress. Don’t be fooled by the hype, and don’t be afraid to ask tough questions.

In a world drowning in greenwashed products, the most sustainable thing you can do… is stay informed.